Saturday, March 10, 2012

The Mouse in the Mountain: By Norbert Davis

This is the first of three novels about the mystery team of Carstairs and Doan written by Norbert Davis. Doan is a chubby, drunken private detective and Carstairs is his bumbling, mumbling Great Dane sidekick. They formed a team when Doan acquired Carstairs in a game of craps. Now, they are rarely apart. They have a sort of love-hate relationship. Each seems to enjoy having the other around, but they do not tolerate each other's weak points. For instance, Carstairs despises when Doan drinks and Doan dislikes when Carstairs does not stay on guard or fully pull his own weight in the team. But, together they manage to fight crime and solve mysteries. In The Mouse in the Mountain they travel to the small town of Los Altos, Mexico to persuade a fugitive not to return to the United States. However, their trip is complicated by the daughter of a millionaire, the Mexican military police, and all the other tourists they meet on the trip. Add to this group of quirky characters some murders and a natural disaster to truly make this book a fast, and interesting read. Although Norbert Davis wrote The Mouse in the Mountain in the 1940's, the book still has an easy-to-read feel. It is quick-paced and entertaining throughout. I only wish there had been a bit more of Carstairs in the novel. He really plays a minor role. Perhaps in the following books his character will be expanded upon. I will just have to read to find out.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Converting Dog Years To Human Years

If you're like most people you probably have thought about how old your dog really is. However, converting dog years to human years requires more than a simple formula. Not many years ago it was said that 10 human years was the equivalent of one dog year. More recently that has been modified to seven people years for every dog year. But, there is still a lot more that needs to be taken into account before you will truly know how many candles to put on your dog's birthday cake.

For example, not all types of dogs age at the same rate. Larger breed dogs tend to age slower during their first few years of life and then age much more rapidly. They also have much shorter life expectancies than smaller breeds. Small to medium sized dogs often age rather quickly in their first few years and then at a slower rate for the remaining years; thereby making them appear much younger and more active than larger breeds of the same age.

Based on these facts it can be assumed that when a small dog reaches one year it is similar to a teenage human. Yet, a large dog at this age may only be equivalent to a preteen human. A medium-sized dog that has aged to seven years is entering middle-age (just like a human of 40 or 50). Whereas, a large dog of the same age is entering its senior years (similar to a 60 or 70 year old person). So, you can see, converting dog years to human years is in no way a simple feat. We differ in so many ways, dogs and humans, and our aging process is just one of the ways in which we differ.

Interesting fact: The oldest reported dog lived to the ripe old age of 29!

So, how old is your dog?

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Enjoying Dog Parks

Dog parks seem to have a love-them-or-hate-them reputation. Dog park enthusiasts love the convenience of having access to space for their dogs to run and an endless supply of new buddies to meet. Because, let's face it, dogs are social animals. Dog park skeptics, however fear the dangers and diseases that may be encountered in such play areas. I want to share with you here a few ways to safely enjoy all the benefits of dog parks. For those of you already addicted to the craze this article will only serve to reaffirm your dog park addiction. And, for those of you who are still a bit leery of packing your pooch into the car and heading down to the local dog park, hopefully I can put you at ease.


Dog parks are popping up all over the country. They can be found in rural areas as well as urban. They range from beach settings to forested areas. Some are less than 1/2 an acre big while others encompass well over 10 acres of land for your pup to enjoy. These parks are a great form of recreation for your dog and for you. But, in order to truly enjoy their greatness a few tips should be kept in mind.


  • Make sure your dog is old enough to play. Most dog parks have an age requirement and it is usually 4 months old. Abide by this. Younger pups are not always ready for the intensity of the dog parks. They get easily trampled and traumatized. The last thing you want is your dog to be forever fearful of these wonderful places.
  • Vaccinate. One way to be sure your dog will not contract any of the diseases associated with dog parks is to ensure that he is properly vaccinated before taking him there. It also helps to administer regular flea medications and dewormers. Never assume other people care for their dogs as well as you care for your own. Prevention is crucial.
  • Bring water. Most dogs parks have a communal watering hole which is fine for the most part, but they are not always the cleanest of water sources. So, it never hurts to have your own supply just in case. 
  • Carry a spray bottle. It may sound extreme, but it is a good idea to bring a spray bottle with water in it or you can get a spray can of citronella from the pet stores. In the unfortunate event that a dog fight should occur you will be prepared. The spray may deter the dogs from continuing their aggression. The citronella is unpleasant to them, but not harmful. 
  • Let your dog off his leash. You may think you are protecting your dog or others by keeping your dog leashed, but you are only causing harm. Your dog needs to be on equal playing ground. By keeping him leashed while those around him run free you are singling him out and making him a likely target for bullies. Your dog is also more apt to feel teased and stressed in this situation and lash out. If you don't think your pooch is ready to play off leash then he may not be ready for the dog park just yet.
  • Keep an eye on your dog. Always monitor his play at the park. The dog park is not daycare. Do not expect other people to watch your dog for you. Always know where he is and what he's doing and make sure he obeys your commands. If he's not listening, give him a time out. Dogs that are way out of control may fare better taking a leashed stroll around the neighborhood until they are better prepared for the freedom of dog parks.
  • Clean up after your dog. There are usually scoopers or bags available at the parks. So, use them. You wouldn't want to step in a mess that someone conveniently forgot about either.


Now, you should be ready to enjoy your next or first trip to one of the many dog parks. With success you will have one dirty, tired, happy pup at the end of the day. And, you will most likely feel deep satisfaction knowing you provided your dog with the best day of his life-until the next time ,of course.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

How To Get The Urine Smell Out of Carpet

Is there an unpleasant odor lingering in your house? Have you often prayed for a way to get the urine smell out of your carpet? Here are a few tips that may come in handy.

The urine scent stays present long after we think all stains and puddles have been removed. However, there can always be spots that you've missed, but that have dried up. If you turn off the lights in the room and shine a black light on the carpet you should be able to see the spots you might have missed before and then you can attack them with the cleaning supplies.

It is always important to clean the area well. If it is a fresh spot try to absorb as much of the urine with paper towels first. Then, pour water on the area to dilute the urine and the odor before proceeding with the cleaning. Use a good carpet shampoo. But, that is not enough. The urine unfortunately has a way of making it down into the padding as well along with its distinctive scent. You will need a strong deodorizer in order to really reach the root of this problem. If you do not want to buy an odor removal product from the pet store than you can try making your own solution out of one part vinegar and 2 parts water or one part baking soda and six parts water. Either of these formulas can be poured directly on the spot and left to soak for a few hours (up to 8 hours for the vinegar, 24 or more for baking soda) before blotting dry. After the spot is completely dry you can also vacuum up any remaining baking soda.

Some problems just go too deep and the only way to get the urine smell out of the carpet is to remove the carpet and padding entirely and learn to live with wood floors. Sometimes even the wood beneath is damaged from the pesky urine. Remember, proper potty training will save you a lot of trouble in this department, but accidents do happen. So, it is always best to be prepared.

If you have any other tips for getting the urine smell out of carpet please share them with us below.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

City Of Carson, California To Start Coyote Trapping

I was saddened to read that two weeks ago the city of Carson, CA voted to begin coyote trapping. I am a California native and do not live far from the city of Carson currently. I was actually a resident of that city a few years ago. I, myself, have never even seen a coyote in California. However, apparently some residents of a local Carson mobile home park called Carson Harbor Village issued a few complaints to get this process escalated. Now, despite animal advocates' attempts, the city will be spending a hefty $10,000 to have a trapper set up snares throughout the city. These snares are made of wires that cinch around the animal's neck. These have the ability to strangle the coyotes to death, but if the coyotes do not die, they will be captured and euthanized. The state of California does not allow for relocation, only coyote trapping and killing.

Coyotes are native to this land. They have survived for years despite being the most persecuted of wild dogs. Humans have been capturing and killing them relentlessly and yet they continue to thrive. That is how they have earned the reputation of being the most intelligent of the wild dogs. It is possible to peacefully coexist with these beautiful creatures. The people of Carson would have been able to put their funds to much better use if they had simply educated their residents on how to make their community less desirable for the coyotes. We humans often blame animals for coming into "our territory" and fear that they will harm our pets and children. Well, it is our fault that they are coming closer and closer to our homes. First, we are in their territory. Second, we simply need to take better precautions with our pets and children. Also, it is best not to feed our pets outside. Coyotes are attracted by the pet food that is left out so often as it is easy for them to access. They also enjoy rummaging through our garbage. This can be solved by acquiring more secure containers. If we encourage the coyotes to rely on us less they will back off a bit more and go back to hunting for their own food in the wild.

I have seen coyotes in the different states that I have lived in such as Arizona and Colorado. I often saw them near my apartment in Aurora, Co where I walked my dog. These are not vicious animals. They are more afraid of you and your dog than you are of them. My favorite quote from the newspaper article about Carson, CA came from a woman in the mobile home community who filed a complaint. She stated that she "often sees single coyotes sunning themselves in her front yard". Wow. What a threat. However, yes, if you leave your cat outside unattended it may go missing. That is why it is important to be a responsible pet owner, but coyote trapping is not the answer. We should not punish and kill these animals because of our mistakes.

Coyotes mate for life. They usually live in small groups consisting of the parent dogs, and the young pups. Coyote trapping causes these families to be separated and the young left to fend for themselves. This is a cruel practice. On top of that, the coyotes that remain will begin to breed at more rapid rates to replace those they lost. Also, more animals may move in from outside the area to fill in the gaps. This is a losing and unnecessary battle on the part of Carson, CA. Please join with PETA and Project Coyote (a nonprofit organization based in California) in speaking out against this rash determination that has taken place. The animal rights advocates have already stated their intent to persevere in trying to get the decision rescinded. They can always use an extra voice. Fight for the coyotes. Do not let another beautiful animal be subjected to our inhumane ways.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Peanut Butter Dog Biscuits

Dogs really enjoy peanut butter and some of the sadistic ones of us enjoy watching our pups lick peanut butter off their noses. But, that is beside the point. Try out this recipe for peanut butter dog biscuits and watch as your dog begs for more.


Ingredients:
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup unsalted peanut butter (creamy or crunchy; your dog's choice)
1 cup honey
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract


(makes about 3 dozen treats)


Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Mix together the flour and baking powder and place it aside.
Stir together the peanut butter, honey, oil, and vanilla until creamy. Add the eggs to the mixture one at a time. Then, add the dry ingredients and stir all together until smooth.
Drop the dough by the teaspoonful onto two ungreased cookie sheets. Leave about an inch between each treat. Bake for 12-14 minutes or until golden.
Let the treats cool off completely before letting your dog indulge.
These treats should stay fresh for about a week.
Your dog will definitely thank you for these peanut buttery biscuits. Save them for a special occasion or use them as rewards when teaching your pup a new trick. Now, go get started baking!

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

How To Teach A Dog To Shake

While it may not be the most necessary of tricks in the world of dog obedience if you teach a dog to shake you open the door to a world of other fun-filled tricks such as wave goodbye, high-five, or turn off the light. To teach a dog to shake or give you his paw is a relatively simple task. For this trick I use the verbal command "shake", but you may choose to say "paw" instead. First, have your dog sit. Then, kneel in front of your dog. Now, you may choose to just lift your dog's paw off the floor while saying "shake" and praise him for this action. Or, you could press down on your dog's shoulder thereby forcing him to raise his paw. You could then slip your hand under his paw while saying your command and giving the appropriate praise. After a few times of showing your dog how it's done he should be ready to try it on his own. Stretch your open hand out to him and command "shake' and see if he obliges. If so, your training is complete. Simply reinforce this trick on a regular basis always giving rewards when your pup gives you a good, firm pawshake.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

The Dog Who Knew Too Much

In the Chet and Bernie Mystery, The Dog Who Knew Too Much, Spencer Quinn once again delights readers with the lovable canine sleuth Chet and his private investigator owner Bernie. This is the fourth installment of mystery novels involving this duo. Spencer Quinn writes in a way that is easy to read and hard to stop. Chet, the dog, is the narrator of this tale. It is quite refreshing and fun to read from a dog's perspective. Dog lovers will surely like this even if they are not the biggest mystery fans. In The Dog Who Knew Too Much Chet and Bernie are hired for a rather simple weekend gig, but what ensues is kidnapping, murder, and mayhem in the back country wilderness. Although not what they had planned for, nothing proves too much for the clever Bernie and the courageous Chet. What I think I enjoyed most about this book, other than the suspense and intrigue, was the portrayal of a caring, codependent relationship between a dog and his human. Chet and Bernie prove while there are some things dogs simply cannot understand about people and countless things humans are incapable of detecting that a dog can we are still able to form lasting, meaningful bonds with each other and occasionally fight crime in the process. Read this book. You will not be disappointed. Other Chet and Bernie Mysteries by Spencer Quinn include: To Fetch A Thief, Thereby Hangs A Tail, and Dog On It.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Deciding Whether Crate Training Is Best For Your Dog

I have always found crate training to be a bit cruel, but I thought that I was alone in this opinion. Most people I encounter who have dogs speak very highly of the crating process. They believe it to be essential in the training of any dog. I have had it recommended to me by many sources. I had begun to think that maybe I was mistaken about my original opinion. Then, recently, I read an article by PETA contradicting the most common beliefs about crate training. It was refreshing to know that I am not alone and that there are other views out there. So, I would like to discuss with you now a little of each side and let you come to your own conclusions about whether to crate your dog or not.

Those In Favor:


Advocates of crate training will say that dogs by nature have dens and that crates are similar to this. They feel safe in these close quarters. The crate will be viewed as the dog's own personal room that he can safely and comfortably travel to different destinations in. It is also believed that potty training is made easier because dogs typically do not relieve themselves where they sleep. Crate-lovers will list benefits such as no more damage to the house and therefore no more unnecessary punishment to the doggie. Those in favor of crate training will even find ways to make the crate a decorative part of the home. There are all kinds of crates on the market from designer crates to crates that resemble pieces of household furniture. The crate provides a convenient way to keep your dog close to you while keeping him free from harm and out of trouble.

Those Opposed:


The other view of crate training is quite the opposite. While anti-craters do recognize a dog's denning instinct they also realize that, in nature, a dog's den would never consist of a locked door. Dogs may enjoy small spaces, but they do not appreciate their total lack of freedom. However, the behavior they display that might cause some to believe they "love" their crates is really just a dog's way of being obedient. Dogs love their humans more than anything and will wait all day in a cage until they are set free to stretch, run, and enjoy time with the family. Those opposed to crate training also do not believe that the crate promotes security. However, it can lead to severe separation anxiety and depression. Dogs left home alone all day locked in a cage will often cry, bark, and howl, demonstrating  this anxiety. Being cramped up for long periods of time also can cause the dog to have too much unspent energy thereby creating a Tasmanian devil-like whirlwind of activity when the dog is actually released. This type of dog may even display more destructive behavior than a dog who has been adequately exercised and entertained throughout the day. As for crating assisting in the potty training department that is not necessarily true especially for puppies. Puppies' bladders do not even fully develop until they are around 6 months old. To expect a young dog to hold its urine for long periods of time is unrealistic and to force him to pee in his own personal space is just unkind.

How To Decide:


Of course, the decision is always up to you. There are ways of utilizing a crate in your dog's life that are less extreme than keeping him locked in it all day. However, just be open to the idea that crate training may not be as flawless and commendable as most people would have you believe. There are always other options and ways to raise a well-behaved, happy dog. We responsible dog owners must not justify our own laziness or desire for convenience  and leave our pets to suffer for the choices we make. To me, crate training a dog is very similar to parents leashing their children. And I have seen quite a number of kids on bracelet leashes and even chest harnesses. If you choose to bring a dog into your life and world prepare yourself first. Be ready to make sacrifices and tap into your surplus patience. Please share with us your opinions on crate training in the comment section below.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Understanding your Dog's Coat

Dogs have a variety of different kinds of coats. Some require a lot more maintenance than others. Understanding your dog's coat will help you to determine whether you can handle grooming yourself or if you need to call in a professional. Also, when choosing a dog you can learn what to expect in terms of mess quantity and primping time.


Types of dog coats:
There are basically two kinds of coats; the double coat and the single coat. The double coat ,or two-ply, consists of two layers of hair; a top coat and an undercoat. The top coat is made up of coarser hairs. These hairs are water repellent. They protect the dog's skin and undercoat from the elements. The undercoat is much softer, shorter fur that serves to keep the dog warm. Dogs shed their undercoat two times each year. Single-coated dogs only have the top coat. Therefore, they shed much less.


Textures of a dog's coat:
There are four main coat textures in dogs.
Smooth-coated dogs have very short hair that settles nicely against the skin. This type of coat can be found on both single and double-coated dogs. Smooth coats require less maintenance, but they do still shed. Dalmatians are an example of a dog with this coat texture.

Wire-coated dogs have fur that is wiry on the outside and soft on the inside, but this texture can be found on single coats as well. Wire coats tend to be wavy looking and are coarse to the touch. This type of fur requires a little more attention. It may need to be stripped or clipped. Terriers have this kind of coat.

Curly-coated dogs are on the high maintenance end of the spectrum. They need regular brushing and clipping. These coats are found on Poodles.

Corded coats or dreadlocks are the most difficult coats to maintain. The hair can easily become twisted and tangled. Pulis belong to this texture group.


Coat lengths:
Just as dog's coats have different textures they also have different lengths. These range from completely hairless like the Chinese Crested to long like the Afghan Hound and everything in between. Short-coated dogs can have a single or double coat. Medium-coated dogs are usually double-coated and long coats are often single-coated. Typically the longer the coat the longer the grooming time required. However, hairless dogs also need a lot of attention paid to the skin.


Regardless of your dog's coat type, regular bathing and brushing is always a good idea. Keep your dog clean and let him show off his beautiful coat. A healthy coat is a sign of a healthy dog.





Saturday, February 11, 2012

A Tribute To Wild Dogs

So much attention is given to our beloved domestic dogs that we often forget about the wild dogs of the world. These amazing canines come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Many are now endangered or can only be found in zoos. I thought I would take a moment to pay tribute to some of these wild dogs. Your pet dog may even be a descendant of one or more of these species.


The Wolf:

The wolf is the largest of the wild dogs. There are over 30 species of wolves in the world. The gray wolf is thought to be the most common ancestor of the dog. Wolves are the most social wild dog therefore causing them to develop relationships with humans more easily. Their similarities with the dog are most noticed in their behaviors of play, dominance and submission, and scent-marking. The females care for their young. Wolves spend most of their lives in packs led by the alpha couple. They sometimes hunt alone although usually with the pack. They use their distinctive howl to keep the pack together. Gray wolves have thick black and white fur and  long muzzles. They have long legs, sharp teeth and sensitive ears that stay upright.

The Coyote:

The coyote is the most intelligent of the wild dogs. Coyotes are known for their problem-solving abilities when hunting. They prey on smaller animals than the wolves do and will usually hunt in pairs. Coyotes are not as social as wolves. They tend to live in smaller groups. Some will even live in solitude until they reach sexual maturity. Coyotes mate for life. They are slender, narrow-jawed, with grayish-brown or yellowish-gray coats. They have drooping, bottle-shaped tails with a black tip and pointed, upright ears.

The Jackal:

Jackals are fast on their feet and can be good hunters, but they are also known for being scavengers. Their bodies are built for long-distance running. They are very similar to coyotes in that they are known for their monogamous relationships and they typically live in small groups. They usually hunt alone or in pairs. They are most active at dusk and dawn. There are a handful of different kinds of jackals; the most common being the golden jackal.

The Fox:

There are many varieties of fox. Some common fox species such as the red fox do not have the right number of chromosomes to mate with the dog, making it impossible for your pup to have this gene. But, foxes in general are part of the canine family. Foxes are among the smallest wild dogs. The absolute smallest is the fennec fox: pictured at right. They are monogamous and they do not live in packs. Their most striking feature is their eyes which have elliptical pupils in many fox species.

The Dingo:

The dingo is probably closer in behavior to the domestic dog than even the wolf. Dingoes hunt in packs and are skilled livestock hunters. They were once thought to be the only native dog of Australia, but it is now believed they originated in Southeast Asia. Dingoes are sandy or ginger colored with white patches on their feet, bellies, chest and muzzle. They have a short coat and erect ears.

The Dhole:

This wild dog can be found in more different climates than any of the other wild canines. They hunt in packs and do not bark or growl, but howl and whimper for communication. They are also called the Asiatic Red Dog and are known for their red color. They are short-haired with a feline-like face.

The African Wild Dog:

This is one of the few wild dogs that cares for its own sick, old, and disabled. African Wild Dogs can run almost 40mph and are extremely efficient hunters. They have calico colored coats and big rounded ears.





There are a few more wild dogs that I have not mentioned here. Each is unique in its own way. Many of these wild dogs are becoming extinct due to loss of their habitat, and human persecution. It is important for us to understand these dogs and how valuable they are. They do, after all, have a connection to our pet dogs who we keep safe under our care.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Foods That Can Be Poisonous To Dogs

Many of the foods found in your home can be poisonous to dogs. We all love our pets and we want to share with them. Some of us are more tempted than others to share our food with our dogs. Even if you do not feed your dogs table scraps they may have ways of finding and indulging in human food themselves. Sometimes it is as simple as waiting at our feet for something to slip through the hole in our lip. Other times, dogs can be quite clever. They may jump up onto the counter, raid the cabinets, or sneak something from the refrigerator right behind your back. I will not go into the details of training your dog to be more well-mannered, but I will address here some of the most common foods that can be poisonous to dogs. 


Chocolate: This is probably the most common food that we have all heard not to feed our dogs. Well, that is because it is true. Chocolate contains theobromine that can cause vomiting or even death. The darker the chocolate the more dangerous. And, as with most items, the size of the dog is a key factor. Smaller dogs are more at risk for toxicity.






Alcohol and Yeast Dough: This one should go without saying as alcohol can be toxic to people as well. So, needless to say, do not share your beer with your dog. Yeast dough also produces ethanol, which is found in alcohol. The effects are similar.









Avocado: This is a food you probably would not suspect, but avocados contain a substance called persin that can be poisonous to dogs causing vomiting and diarrhea.








Caffeinated Items: Caffeine has the same effect as chocolate on dogs. It can damage the heart, lungs, kidneys, and central nervous system.








Fruit Seeds and Pits: While some fruits can be good for your dog the seeds and pits are not. Apple seeds and Cherry, Peach, and Plum pits all contain cyanide. 









Grapes and Raisins: Although your dog may find great joy in playing with these little balls of fruit, they may be toxic even in small doses and can cause kidney failure.











Macadamia Nuts: These can cause symptoms such as vomiting, overheating, and weakness.













Mushrooms: Particularly mushrooms of the Amanita species can be fatal if eaten.










Onions, Chives, Garlic: These  items can cause a type of anemia in dogs that results in the loss of red blood cells and  kidney damage.












Raw Fish: Eating this can result in a vitamin B deficiency which may cause loss of appetite, seizures, and death.









Xylitol: This is an artificial sweetener that is found in candies. It can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar 
resulting in weakness, seizures, and sometimes liver failure.












If you suspect your dog has eaten any of these foods watch him closely. You may need to take a trip to the vet. The typical symptoms of poisoning are vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, loss of appetite, rapid heart rate, increased body temperature, and seizures. If your dog is experiencing any of these symptoms contact your veterinarian immediately. You may also want to consult the ASPCA Poison Control Center. Do not delay or hesitate in the case of toxicity. Although symptoms may take hours or days to show, serious consequences can occur immediately after. These foods that are poisonous to dogs should not be taken lightly. Keep close watch of your beloved pet at all times and do not put him at unnecessary risk.


Monday, February 6, 2012

Dog Treat Recipes

We all know our dogs love treats. These treats are used as rewards for good behavior, as bait for training, and as snacks for a lucky pup. But, the dog treats found in stores can be quite pricey and not always very nutritious. Using your own healthy ingredients you can easily make dog treats in the comfort of your home. You can make anything from biscuits to jerky; even a main entree or two. Your dog will appreciate the gesture and you may even save yourself a little money. Plus, baking can be an enjoyable hobby. Why not bake for your dog while you're at it? Here is a list of a few dog treat recipes I think your pooch might enjoy. Bone Appetit!


Banana Cookies

Banana Cookies

Dogs love fruit and yours will not be able to resist these tasty banana cookies. The scent of the sweet morsels baking will be sure to set any pup's palate to drooling.

Ingredients:


1 cup all-purpouse flour
2 pinches of baking powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 1/2 cups quick rolled oats
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup honey
1 egg
1 ripe banana mashed
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

(makes about 2 dozen treats)

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Apply nonstick vegetable spray to two cookie sheets.
Stir the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and oats together in a bowl and set aside.
In another bowl, blend the oil, honey, egg, banana, and vanilla. Then, slowly stir the dry ingredients into the wet.
Drop the dough by the teaspoonful onto the cookie sheets. Leave at least an inch between cookies. They will not expand much.
Bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden.
Make sure the goodies cool well before serving them to your pup.
These should stay fresh for about a week. Just store them in an airtight container or make more and freeze them for later.
My dog loves these. He really seems to savor the cookie and does not just scarf it down as he does with some of his treats.
Try this recipe and your dog will become a banana cookie lover too.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Why You Should Brush Your Dog's Teeth

The idea of brushing your dog's teeth may seem a bit strange, but it is an important part of your pet's hygiene and health. Domesticated dogs are unable to care for themselves the way they would in the wild. So, they rely on their humans to keep them clean and healthy. This includes such things as teeth-brushing.

What happens when you fail to brush your dog's teeth?

Much like in humans, dog teeth that go long unattended are subject to plaque and tartar build up. This leaves your dog vulnerable to dental disease, mouth pain, loss of appetite, digestive problems, infections, and more. Dental disease is the most common disease found in pet dogs. Fortunately, this is an easy disease to prevent. So, what's stopping you?

How can you keep your dog's teeth healthy?

Ideally, you should be brushing your dog's teeth at least two times a week. I know that may sound like a lot, but in the long term you will be glad you did. Letting the tartar get out of control will only lead to you having to pay a hefty sum to have your vet remove it. This will require your dog to go under anesthesia. So, this simple activity twice a week will save your dog from potential pain and disease. Just be sure to get your dog comfortable with you touching his mouth first since you will need to stick your fingers in there.
A finger brush is probably the easiest kind of  brush to use and will really allow you full access to your dog's teeth, but a bristly canine toothbrush is also acceptable. Just brush in a circular motion as you would your own teeth, paying attention to the whole mouth. Do not use human toothpaste or minty flavors. Buy a pet toothpaste. The flavors are usually something like poultry and more tolerable for your pet. Also, the dog toothpastes are edible since your pooch will more than likely not spit on command.

Another way to prevent dental disease is by feeding your dog dry food and giving him plenty of dental chews, hard toys, and bones to gnaw on. In the wild, dogs chew on bones and naturally reduce their tartar build up. However, domestic animals have a far different diet, exposing them to foods that may be more detrimental to their teeth.

If your dog has atrociously bad breath this is a good sign that there is a significant dental issue. Also, look for reddening or bleeding of the gums, indicating gingivitis. Have your veterinarian check your dog's teeth annually to be sure that there are no problems developing. Keeping up your dog's dental hygiene will provide him with a healthier, longer-lasting smile.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Dealing With Separation Anxiety In Dogs

Is your dog destroying your home every time you leave him alone? Are the neighbors complaining about his incessant barking? This may be a common case of dog separation anxiety. Ultimately your dog has become far too attached to and dependent on you. This is usually associated more with adopted dogs or second-home pets, but any dog can succumb to this anxious feeling when left on his own. The good news is that as this is a learned behavior it can become unlearned just as well.

Let us start by examining some of the telltale signs of separation anxiety in dogs.:

  • following you around the home and watching your every move
  • crying, barking, or howling for the first 20 minutes or so after you leave the home
  • overly excited upon your return home
  • vomiting, urinating, and having diarrhea (even though potty trained) when left home alone
  • scratching at the doors or floors when left alone
  • finding things to chew and destroy during his solitude
  • self-mutilation such as chewing or licking paws and limbs excessively

This anxiety is very upsetting to your dog's health. It has a psychological as well as physical effect on him and on you. When separation anxiety in dogs occurs both pet and owner suffer. Here are a few ways to handle the situation.:

  • Try not to encourage your dog to follow you around and worship you. Rather, encourage him to have a life of his own. It is good for him to spend time alone playing or exploring while you are home too.
  • Along the same lines, do not become overly affectionate with your dog, constantly calling him to you for attention and fawning all over him. Although our dogs are cute and it is tempting to shower them with love at all times this only makes them more dependent on us and more upset when we leave.
  • Allowing, or worse, rewarding bad behavior is never good. If your dog shows any signs of separation anxiety when you are merely in another room ( i.e. whining or whimpering) do not let this continue. Let your dog know it is unacceptable, but try not to give him too much attention in the process because this is truly what he desires. It may be better in this case to ignore a whiny dog. 
  • If you come home and find a mess in the house, whether it be that half of the couch is eaten or your dog has left his fecal droppings all over the house for you, resist the temptation to fly into a rage. Scolding your dog for these acts after the fact is not only confusing to him, but stressful as well. And causing added stress will only contribute to your dog's anxiety. Although we find it hard to believe, dogs are not actually trying to teach us a lesson for leaving them home alone. They are not acting out of spite or revenge. Dogs are not capable of these emotions. They are just scared and nervous and acting on these fears. So, it is really pointless to try to reprimand the bad behavior unless you can actually catch your dog in the act of committing wrongdoings. 
  • Get your dog used to your departures. You may even want to get him used to the motions of your going out without actually leaving. You can close the windows, turn off lights, put your jacket on; whatever your normal routine is before going out. Then, do not actually leave. Repeat this a few times a day until your dog does not seem too nervous anymore. Then you can try just going out the door and coming back in. Eventually you should be able to leave for longer periods of time. Always praise your dog when he behaved in your absence. 
  • You want your departures and arrivals to be as low key as possible. Neither event should be a big deal in your dog's life. Definitely downplay as much as possible. It is a good idea to even ignore your dog for a few minutes before leaving and for a few minutes upon your return. If you make a production of telling your dog how much you're going to miss him when you leave and give him lots of attention you are only adding to his worry. The same applies when you return. If you immediately run to your dog and act extremely excited to see him he will feel his fears were valid. 
  • Sometimes leaving a television or radio on for your dog can ease his tension. You may even want to leave a video camera recording what he is doing so you know exactly when he is most stressed and how you can battle this.
  • You can also try giving your dog less space to roam around in. He may feel more secure in one room of the house rather than wandering about looking for you. I do not recommend locking a dog in too small a space however. I find that to be cruel. You should also try this when you are at home. Leave your dog in the bedroom while you are in the living room and reward him when he is calm and quiet. 
  • Have a special treat or toy ready to give your dog. He should only have this item when you leave. That way he will associate good things with your departures. 
  • Exercise is important in all aspects of a dog's life, but extremely vital in cases of dog separation anxiety. If your dog is tired he will be less likely to care as much that your are gone and he will be more inclined to sleep. 
If only it were as simple as leaving a part of ourselves at home with our dog. 
Your dog may be the most obedient dog in the world and still be a victim of separation anxiety. It is crucial to reinforce basic training commands with your dog at all times. Right now, though, your main focus should be on getting your dog to be less clingy. As with everything, separation anxiety in dogs can be overcome with the proper training and time.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Yes, Dog Acne Does Exist

Acne or pimples are usually associated with people, particularly teenagers, but guess what. Dogs can get zits too! Dog acne affects many pooches, often causing them discomfort. This skin condition is most often found on puppies and young dogs; typically less than a year old. Usually the pimples are located on the chin and lips. The breeds that tend to be most affected by dog acne are Boxers, Rottweilers, Bulldogs, Golden Retrievers, Great Danes, Mastiffs, Weimaraners, and Doberman Pinschers. However, it can occur in any breed, but most often the short-coated ones.

Symptoms:

Dog acne is characterized by a few things. There will be a presence of red bumps and blackheads usually around the chin and lips that may progress to pus-filled lesions or blisters. Your dog may be experiencing itching and irritation. Therefore, he may be rubbing his face on the floor or against furniture. There may also be swelling and inflammation. However, you should not diagnose this as dog acne yourself. There are other more serious conditions that produce this same appearance such as mange, ringworm, and puppy strangles. You should consult your veterinarian to be sure your dog gets the proper treatment.


Causes:

There are different theories as to what causes dog acne. Irritation or blockage of the hair follicles can attribute to these symptoms. Bacteria build-up in the oil glands is another culprit. Genetics may predispose some dogs to this. Hormones also can play a part. Also, it is thought that trauma to the face can bring pimples about.

Prevention And Treatment:


Although dog acne can be hard to avoid in certain pups, one preventative measure to take is to always keep your dog's muzzle and chin as clean and dry as possible. Also, ensure that your dog is living, eating, drinking, and playing in sanitary conditions. However, if your dog does become afflicted with pimples do not, I repeat, do not squeeze them. It may be tempting to pop the zits and watch them ooze, but this will only make your dog's skin condition worse and lead to infection. A warm compress can be applied to soothe the area. Most of the time a simple topical treatment will help alleviate the irritation. This could be a cream or a shampoo containing benzoyl peroxide. Remember though, your dog's skin is sensitive and you should not try to use your own acne medication on him. The human treatments are too strong. Steroids or antibiotics may be prescribed in more severe cases. In most instances dog acne will resolve itself when your dog has grown out of his hormonal teenage years. So, just hang in there. Your dog will be ready for his close up soon enough.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

How To Train A Dog To Sit

Before you teach a dog anything you should train a dog to sit. This may seem basic, but this fundamental command is the building block for all others. Once your dog knows how sit when told you will be in control. This will make all of your future training that much easier. Even if you decide never to expand your dog's command knowledge, mastering "Sit" should be on the top of your list of priorities.

To train a dog to sit you simply need a firm voice, some patience, and maybe a few treats. With your dog in front you and with his full attention show him your hand signal of choice. For 'Sit', I show my dog an outstretched index finger. So, with your finger pointing, firmly say the command, "Sit". You will need to press down lightly on your dog's butt the first few times you do this so that he understands what you expect. Once he is sitting give him praise and treats, if you like. He will more than likely get right back up as soon as he hears your tone of approval. You do want him to learn to stay seated until you give the command to get up again though. As with all commands this will just need to be repeated continuously. If your dog gets up before you want him to simply have him sit again. When you are ready to have him break the 'Sit' you can say something to the effect of "OK, up" or "Let's go" if you are walking. As your dog becomes more comfortable with the command you can increase the amount of time he stays in the sitting position. If you practice at least 15 minutes a day your dog should learn quickly.

For a different approach try this trick while walking your dog on a leash. You can stop periodically and have him sit. At first, when you still need to push down on his bottom, you can also use the leash as leverage by gently pulling up with the leash, holding it down close to the collar, while pushing down on his backside with your hand. Once your dog knows the command he will sit without assistance. But, you can still use the leash to correct him when he gets up prematurely by giving a little tug and commanding him to sit again. Stay calm and always reward correct results.

I cannot stress the importance of following through with this command. Never give in. If you tell your dog to sit and he refuses to listen keep at it until he does; even if that means missing your turn to cross the street. You can always catch the next light. Just be sure your dog sits. If you give up the only thing you are teaching your dog is that he does not have to listen to you. So, be firm and you will have success as you train your dog to sit.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Pet Air Travel Tips

We all know that air travel can be a stressful experience. Throw a dog into the mix and the complication factor has just increased tenfold. However, if you absolutely must take your dog on an airplane I am not here to stop you. I will simply try to ease you through the labyrinth that is pet air travel.

Flying with pets, although a foreign concept to some, is an absolute necessity to others. Sadly, there are some dog breeds which should not get on an airplane for any reason. That includes Pugs, Pekingeses, and other flat faced or snub-nosed breeds. These dogs already suffer from breathing problems and the high altitude would be too much for them to handle. In fact, many airlines will not even allow these dogs to fly. If you are an owner of one of these breeds and your dog simply cannot stay behind for this trip then consider an alternative mode of transportation. Also, take into consideration your dog’s age and health. If you think this experience could be in any way too much for you dog, don’t do it. There are always other ways. 

Weather is also an important factor when planning your flight. Some airlines have restrictions on when pets can fly and you should have your own as well. Especially if your dog is flying with the checked baggage be leery of too cold or too hot temperatures. The cabin down below is not as temperature-controlled as your seat up in economy. So, don’t let your pup's toes freeze off or cause him to overheat. Just be sensitive to his needs as well and pick a nice time of year to fly.

If you are an owner of a miniature breed consider yourself lucky in this instance. You may not have the greatest guard dog in your possession, but you do have a little king or queen of pet air travel. Many airlines will allow you to simply carry your dog on board provided they stay in their carrier and that the container can fit safely under your seat for takeoff and landing. Your dog is so grateful to be tiny at this moment. He doesn’t care that all of the other dogs bully him in the park because he can always rub their noses in the fact that he got to ride First Class while they were stuck in cargo.

For those dogs destined for the cargo hold their discomfort can be lessened by some careful planning. If your pet is already crate trained then he will have no problem being caged for a bit. Still, be sure to secure him in a crate he knows and loves. The same goes for those dogs that are not crate trained. Pick out your cage at least a month before you travel so that they can become accustomed to their space. You want your dog as calm as possible. If they feel they are in a safe environment this will be much easier. Consider putting some soft toys that they enjoy in there as well. Feel free to throw in some old clothes of yours that still have your scent on them. If you want to include some food and water inside the cage be sure to get bowls that are fastened tightly to the inside and easily accessible to the airline attendants. Some airlines, such as Delta, will feed and water your dog if you provide instructions on the front of the cage. Remember that your dog will not be able to relieve himself anywhere except in his crate for the duration of the flight. You should line the bottom with absorbent material and do not be surprised when you find a mess upon arrival, but give the little guy a break. He just endured quite a journey. Be sure you have a crate or carrier that you feel will withstand the humps and bumps of turbulence. The latch should fasten securely so that the door cannot swing open and the door should not be the kind that comes off completely when all four latches are in the open position. Metal grate doors are ideal. Do not use crates with top openings. Use a non-collapsible variety. Ensure the crate is fastened together with metal nuts and bolts, not plastic pegs. There should be solid walls and floor with ample holes for breathing. Be sure your dog can stand up, lie down, and turn around. You don’t like to be cramped up either. Many crates and kennels are advertised as airline approved, but each airline has its own regulations and you have your own standards. So, spend some time and be thorough when making this decision. You would not want to be all packed and ready to fly when your dog is denied at check-in because your crate does not meet the requirements.

Do you have an extremely nervous dog? Is the Fourth of July his least favorite holiday? Well, taking a flight is very different from tolerating the noise of fireworks from the comfort of your own home. I know you want your pet to be relaxed throughout the trip, but sedatives and tranquilizers are not the answer. Most airlines will not even allow your drugged up pooch on the plane without a note from the veterinarian. That tells you it is a serious matter. When your dog is under the influence of these drugs his breathing pattern will change. At such high altitude, with already minimal air in the cabin, your dog is safest fully alert. Your pet will also be able to brace himself against injury if his crate should move. The majority of pet deaths on airplanes are due to sedatives.

If all of this still makes you nervous there is a pet airline called Pet Airways that actually treats your pets as passengers. The dogs all fly in the main cabin. However, the ticket will cost more than your own ticket.  But, if you have the money to spare you may want to look into. As with any travel, pet air travel requires a lot of time and planning, but it can be done if needed. Just brace yourself for the journey.